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Element checks (Freelander 2)

 
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Contents: Vacuum brake booster ⇩ Master brake cylinder ⇩

Vacuum brake booster


  • Check all hoses and connections. All unused vacuum system connectors should be capped. Hoses and their connections should be properly secured, in good condition, and free of holes and deformed areas. Inspect the valve on the brake booster for damage.
  • Check the hydraulic brake system for leaks or low brake fluid levels.
  • With the automatic transmission in PARK, stop the engine and apply the parking brake. Depress the brake pedal several times to relieve the vacuum in the system. With the engine off and no vacuum in the system, depress the brake pedal and hold it down. Start the engine. If the vacuum system is working, the brake pedal will tend to move downward with continuous foot pressure. If no movement is felt, the brake booster system is not working.
  • Disconnect the vacuum hose from the brake booster. With the engine idling and the automatic transmission in PARK, there should be a vacuum equal to the intake manifold vacuum at the end of the hose on the brake booster side. Make sure that all unused vacuum connections are properly capped, that the hose connections are properly secured, and that the vacuum hoses are in good condition. After checking that there is a vacuum (equal to the intake manifold vacuum) supplied to the brake booster, reconnect the vacuum hose to the brake booster and repeat step 3. If no downward movement of the brake pedal is felt, install a new brake booster.
  • Let the engine run for at least 10 seconds at high idle. Stop the engine and let the vehicle stand still for 10 minutes. Then depress the brake pedal with a force of approximately 89 N. The pedal feel (brake application) should be the same as with the engine running. If the brake pedal feels hard (no boost), install a new valve and then repeat the check. If the brake pedal still feels hard, install a new brake booster. If the brake pedal feels spongy when moving the brake pedal, BLEED the brake system. For additional information, refer to: Bleeding the Brake System (206-00 Brake System - General Information, General Procedures) / Bleeding the Pressurized Brake System (206-00 Brake System - General Information, General Procedures).




Master brake cylinder


Usually, the first and main sign of any malfunction in the brake system is the nature of the brake pedal perception. When diagnosing the condition of the main brake cylinder, check the nature of the pedal perception as a sign of a malfunction in the brake system. Check the inclusion of the brake system indicator lamp and the brake fluid level in the brake hydraulic reservoir.

Normal states


The following conditions are considered normal and do not indicate the need for master cylinder repair.
  • Modern brake systems do not have the same stiff brake pedal as in the past. If there is a complaint about low pedal effort, you should compare this effort with the pedal effort of another car of the same model and year of manufacture.
  • The brake fluid level will drop as the brake pads wear.

Abnormal conditions


Changes in the feel of the brake pedal or its movement are signs of a problem with the brake system. When diagnosing problems with the brake system, signs of a problem are considered to be a change in the feel of the brake pedal, the warning light coming on, and low brake fluid. The following conditions are considered abnormal and indicate that the brake master cylinder needs to be repaired.

NOTE: Before performing any diagnostics, make sure the brake system warning light is working properly.

  • The pedal drops too quickly. This could be caused by an external or internal leak.
  • The pedal moves down too slowly. This may be due to an external or internal leak.
  • The brake pedal drops too low or has a spongy feel when you press the pedal. This condition can be caused by a lack of brake fluid in the brake fluid reservoir, a clogged reservoir cap vent, or air in the hydraulic system.
  • Increased brake pedal effort. This may be caused by a sticking or foreign object in the pedal or pedal linkage, a faulty check valve, or insufficient vacuum in the booster.
  • The rear brakes lock up when the pedal is pressed lightly. This can be caused by damaged brake pads, partial activation of the parking brake, damage to the ABS sensor or a bearing failure.
  • Erratic brake pedal force. This condition can be caused by the brake booster or improperly installed brake pads.
  • The brake system warning light is on. This could be caused by low fluid levels or a damaged float.

Leaks without pressure


Any decrease in the amount of fluid in the brake fluid reservoir can be caused by two types of external (non-pressurized) leaks.
  • Type 1: There may be an external leak at the brake fluid reservoir cap, caused by improper installation of the gasket and cap. Reinstall the cap and gasket.
  • Type 2: External leakage may occur at the brake fluid reservoir mounting seal. Fix this leak by installing new seals and ensure that the brake fluid reservoir mounting bolt is installed correctly.


This article is available at russian, bulgarian, belarusian, ukrainian, serbian, croatian, romanian, polish, slovak, hungarian
Article review: Roman Mitrofanov


 

Previous articles
Brake system specifications
Description and operating principle of the brake system
Diagnostics and testing of the brake system
Road test of the brake system
Pinpoint tests of the brake system

Current article
Element checks

Next articles
Bleeding the brake system
Front Disc Brake Specification
Front Disc Brake Description
Operating principle of the front disc brake
Front brake pads
Front brake disc
Front Brake Caliper Support Plate
Rear Disc Brake Specification

 
 

Similar articles from Land Rover repair manuals:
• Element checks Discovery 3 (2004-2009)
• Replacing the filter element Discovery 1 (1989-1998)
• Air cleaner filter element Range Rover 3 (2001-2012)
• Steering diagnostics and checks Defender 2007+ (2007-2016)

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